At the hospital my
greatest fear was realized. No one spoke English! Having depended on Max as my
translator the entire trip I’ve been very lazy about picking up more Spanish
and now I will pay for my sin!
I quickly learned the word for pain (dolor) and
used the #8 (ocho) to describe the pain, I would have used the number diez
except that left me no place to go up in case the pain got worse (fat chance of
that!). After a number of x-rays I was diagnosed with a broken collarbone and 3
broken ribs with a possible punctured lung and told that they would monitor me
through the night. I was relieved I’d be spending the night because I couldn’t imagine
any way possible getting my damaged body to a hostel. One thing you learn
quickly in Argentina is that if you want something you must ask. This goes for
a menu in a restaurant, to pay the dinner bill or get pain meds. They had
hooked me up to an IV so I mistakenly thought they were administering pain meds
through that but as the time wore on my pain began getting worse.
I finally asked for the pain meds and they promptly gave me a shot, I guess all’s I had to do was ask!
 |
| Removing my gear after the accident |
I finally asked for the pain meds and they promptly gave me a shot, I guess all’s I had to do was ask!
Once I got the
shot sleep came easily and I actually got a halfway decent nights rest. The
next morning I got a visit from a doctor who spoke some English who asked about
my insurance. After I told him I was insured he started going over my injuries.
The ribs would take care of themselves but he thought I should consider having
a plate and screws to put the collarbone back together. After multiple unsuccessful
attempts to contact anyone at Blue Cross (welcome to our world Senor Dr.) I was
told that maybe it would be better to wait and get it done somewhere else, in
other words “we don’t want to get stuck with the bill”. Meanwhile back at the
accident Brine had continued on another 35 miles to Tress Lagos, a very small
village, to see about gathering up my motto and gear. At around 11:00 PM Saint
Carlos shows up at John’s hostel with a flatbed truck and 3 big friends to go
back out on the pampas and find the bike. This they did and hauled it back to Tress
Lagos. By the time they got it all unloaded it was after 2 in the morning! Of
course Carlos wouldn’t take so much as a dime for him and his friends. By this
time John had e-mailed Max I’d been in an accident. Since John knew little
about my condition he couldn’t tell Max much.
Max had spent the previous 30+ hours busing and hitchhiking down to Ushuaia then an additional 8 hours exploring the city, all without sleep! After receiving the news Max went straight to the bus station and bought a ticket to Peidra Buenas for 5 the next morning. He figured, being as tired as he was, that there was a good chance of over sleeping he planned departure time so he hooked up with some girl and spent the night roaming around town and trying his luck at the local casino. He made the bus and after hours of torturous bus ride arrived by my bedside at around 9 pm my second night there. Man was I happy to see him! I think I may even have shed a small tear of joy! So after 2 nights in the hospital I was given my walking papers. Max found us a hotel nearby and went a retrieved my “pain meds”. Well, that fist night out was a pretty uncomfortable night. Turns out my “pain meds” were actually anti-inflammatory drugs and not the kick ass painkillers I was hoping for. The next morning I had to gimp my way back to the hospital and get a prescription for some stronger stuff (remember you must ask to receive!). We spent another 2 or three days here before I felt I could move on to a happier place (Peidra in a depressing town!).
Plus I wanted to get to an area where Max actually had something to do. El Calafate fit the bill so we loaded up on a bus and road 6 hours across the Pampas to see what we could. The bus ride was pretty cool. It was a double deck affair and we sat up front on the top deck. What a view! It’s as close to riding a motorcycle (view wise) as you can get without the wind! Again we saw herds of Guanacos and lots of Rheas. Once arriving in El Calafate we began the task of finding a suitable place to stay. We quickly stumbled onto, what turned out to be, the perfect hostel. My hosts for next number of days were a young couple, Belen and Dario. I began calling Belen “Mom”. She was always making sure I was comfortable and asking if there was anything I needed, even baking cookies for me. In El Calafate Max had a more interesting area to explore and spent a day at the Perito Moraino Glacier. I guess it was pretty impressive because Max, a ex glacier guide from Alaska, was very impressed at it’s size and the calving. Life in El Calafate quickly became very routine for me. Up in the morning; breakfast of coffee and toast then back to the pillows for a rest. In the afternoons it was a short walk and back to the pillows and in the evening it would be dinner cooked by Dario and back to the pillows. Get it? I didn’t do too much the first few days there.
Slowly but surely my non -pillow time increased, as did the length of my walks. The town is set up for tourists with lots of outdoor stores and coffee shops. There is also a wetlands area within walking distance where you can see all kinds of birds including the Argentina Flamingo that looks very similar to the Pink Flamingo. After hanging out here for a week or so it was time to move on to El Chalten, a town about 3 hours north by bus. So we packed up a got a cab to the bus terminal.
I guess I wasn’t really ready to travel. The cab driver took a few too many turns too fast and hit a number of speed bumps at speed that combined caused considerable movement in my tender rib area. Ouch!!!! I can’t remember feeling such acute pain before and that includes immediately after the accident! By the time I got to the bus station I was having serious misgivings on my decision to travel so soon but the thought of getting back into a cab pushed me to soldier on. Once on the bus I discovered my choice of seating wasn’t the best (I sat right over the front wheels) so after a number of scream inducing bumps Max and I found some seats nearer the middle of the bus.
That and doubling up on my pain meds made for a rather enjoyable trip. The route took us Lago Argentino and Lago Viedma, both large beautiful lakes.
Once we arrived in El Chalten we found ourselves in a small somewhat nondescript town surrounded by incredible glacier carved peaks including Friz Roy, a famous “must climb peak” for the seasoned climber that come to El Chalten as a destination. While I continued my recovery Max took advantage and did a couple of overnight treks. We stayed here for 6 nights then traveled back to El Calafate and back to “moms” house. It so nice to be going back to a place that is so familiar and friendly. My room was ready when we arrived including the necessary four pillows I require! Once back Max began trying to figure out how he was going to get to Tres Lagos where my bike has been stored. It turns out he would to buy a very expensive bus ticket Perito Moreno to get anywhere close to Tres Lagos. Even then the bus drops him 4 kms from town. He considers hitchhiking but there isn’t much traffic on that road. On a whim I contacted Carlos, the saint that drove me to the hospital a few weeks ago, to see if he knew of anyone coming down from Tres Lagos that could give Max a lift.
Well, as luck would have it, Carlos himself is coming down the next day to pick up some people and will be happy to give Max a ride! Things do have a way of working out on the road and this was no exception.
 |
| X-Ray showing broken collarbone and ribs |
Max had spent the previous 30+ hours busing and hitchhiking down to Ushuaia then an additional 8 hours exploring the city, all without sleep! After receiving the news Max went straight to the bus station and bought a ticket to Peidra Buenas for 5 the next morning. He figured, being as tired as he was, that there was a good chance of over sleeping he planned departure time so he hooked up with some girl and spent the night roaming around town and trying his luck at the local casino. He made the bus and after hours of torturous bus ride arrived by my bedside at around 9 pm my second night there. Man was I happy to see him! I think I may even have shed a small tear of joy! So after 2 nights in the hospital I was given my walking papers. Max found us a hotel nearby and went a retrieved my “pain meds”. Well, that fist night out was a pretty uncomfortable night. Turns out my “pain meds” were actually anti-inflammatory drugs and not the kick ass painkillers I was hoping for. The next morning I had to gimp my way back to the hospital and get a prescription for some stronger stuff (remember you must ask to receive!). We spent another 2 or three days here before I felt I could move on to a happier place (Peidra in a depressing town!).
 |
| Photo I sent Charlotte to let her know I was OK |
Plus I wanted to get to an area where Max actually had something to do. El Calafate fit the bill so we loaded up on a bus and road 6 hours across the Pampas to see what we could. The bus ride was pretty cool. It was a double deck affair and we sat up front on the top deck. What a view! It’s as close to riding a motorcycle (view wise) as you can get without the wind! Again we saw herds of Guanacos and lots of Rheas. Once arriving in El Calafate we began the task of finding a suitable place to stay. We quickly stumbled onto, what turned out to be, the perfect hostel. My hosts for next number of days were a young couple, Belen and Dario. I began calling Belen “Mom”. She was always making sure I was comfortable and asking if there was anything I needed, even baking cookies for me. In El Calafate Max had a more interesting area to explore and spent a day at the Perito Moraino Glacier. I guess it was pretty impressive because Max, a ex glacier guide from Alaska, was very impressed at it’s size and the calving. Life in El Calafate quickly became very routine for me. Up in the morning; breakfast of coffee and toast then back to the pillows for a rest. In the afternoons it was a short walk and back to the pillows and in the evening it would be dinner cooked by Dario and back to the pillows. Get it? I didn’t do too much the first few days there.
 |
| My hosts in El Calafate Belen, Dario and their daughter |
Slowly but surely my non -pillow time increased, as did the length of my walks. The town is set up for tourists with lots of outdoor stores and coffee shops. There is also a wetlands area within walking distance where you can see all kinds of birds including the Argentina Flamingo that looks very similar to the Pink Flamingo. After hanging out here for a week or so it was time to move on to El Chalten, a town about 3 hours north by bus. So we packed up a got a cab to the bus terminal.
 |
| El Chalten |
I guess I wasn’t really ready to travel. The cab driver took a few too many turns too fast and hit a number of speed bumps at speed that combined caused considerable movement in my tender rib area. Ouch!!!! I can’t remember feeling such acute pain before and that includes immediately after the accident! By the time I got to the bus station I was having serious misgivings on my decision to travel so soon but the thought of getting back into a cab pushed me to soldier on. Once on the bus I discovered my choice of seating wasn’t the best (I sat right over the front wheels) so after a number of scream inducing bumps Max and I found some seats nearer the middle of the bus.
 |
| Fitz Roy |
That and doubling up on my pain meds made for a rather enjoyable trip. The route took us Lago Argentino and Lago Viedma, both large beautiful lakes.
 |
| El Chalten Sunset |
Once we arrived in El Chalten we found ourselves in a small somewhat nondescript town surrounded by incredible glacier carved peaks including Friz Roy, a famous “must climb peak” for the seasoned climber that come to El Chalten as a destination. While I continued my recovery Max took advantage and did a couple of overnight treks. We stayed here for 6 nights then traveled back to El Calafate and back to “moms” house. It so nice to be going back to a place that is so familiar and friendly. My room was ready when we arrived including the necessary four pillows I require! Once back Max began trying to figure out how he was going to get to Tres Lagos where my bike has been stored. It turns out he would to buy a very expensive bus ticket Perito Moreno to get anywhere close to Tres Lagos. Even then the bus drops him 4 kms from town. He considers hitchhiking but there isn’t much traffic on that road. On a whim I contacted Carlos, the saint that drove me to the hospital a few weeks ago, to see if he knew of anyone coming down from Tres Lagos that could give Max a lift.
 |
| Max returns with the GS |
Well, as luck would have it, Carlos himself is coming down the next day to pick up some people and will be happy to give Max a ride! Things do have a way of working out on the road and this was no exception.
Friday March 23rd
Max catches a ride
the following day to Tres Lagos, a 2-hour trip north, and puts the GS back
together. The only thing mechanically wrong with the bike was the hydraulic
line for the clutch was pinched and once he freed that up the bike ran like a
champ! He made it back to El Calafate around 7 that night much to my relief. Also
much to my surprise the old girl didn’t look too bad. It was very apparent I
got the worst of the wreck.
 |
| El Chalten Hot Rod |
Saturday March 24th
 |
| Max leaves for Buenos Aries |
Spot begins working and I can see he has made good time. He has gone 900 miles in the last day! I can even see where he has stopped for lunch. Pretty cool thing these Spot Units. I spend my time walking around town, hanging in coffee shops and resting.
Tuesday March 27th
Today is my turn
to leave. I really hate to go but I have to be in Buenos Aries on the 28th
to begin the paperwork for getting the bike shipped out. After heartfelt
goodbyes to my hosts Belen and Dario I catch a cab to the airport where I get
enough pity to be given seats in the front of the jet. Unfortunitly there is no
1st class on the plane and all I gain is a little more leg room (I
was hopping for free drinks, cheese plates and whatever else comes with the
upgrade). Max and John meet me at the airport and we all share a cab into
Buenos Aries to our hostel. Kind of funny but Max got in to BA last night and
John had been there since the day before. They both ended up at the same hostel
but didn’t know it until the next morning!
Wednesday March 28th
It turns out I
don’t have to be there for the initial paperwork so I stay back at the hostel
while Max and John go find our broker. I did, however, give Max and John directions which I obtained using Dufas as my guide. They were gone all day! I was sitting back at the hostel feeling sorry for myself thinking they were out exploring Buenos Aries without me. It turns out the directions they got were way off and it took them all day to find the place! When they finally returned and told me what happened I felt bad but caught very little shit for it. Had the tables been turned I don't think I would have as forgiving!
 |
| BA Street Art |
Thursday
Off to the airport
to ship the bikes. Max and John follow on their bikes, me riding in a cab. The
route we took was the same route last nights storm took. Big billboards were
folded in half and trees uprooted. 14 people died in that storm last night. Once
at the shipping warehouse we are told we could only ship bike related stuff on
the pallet. This put a hurt on us as we had hoped to ship all are camping gear,
tools cloths etc.. Lucky for us the guy helping palletizing our bikes took pity
on us and made a call to the airline. He got off the phone and told us as long
as it was attached to the bike it could go. So began the process of repacking
the panniers, trunk, tank bag and putting Max’s tank panniers on and stuffing
them full! We actually got everything stuffed in we needed and left the bikes
to the shipper.
Friday
through Sunday
Spent Friday
getting a haircut then going to the dentist. Down here there is no need to set
up an appointment for the dentist. You just show up and walk in. After looking
at my teeth he decided it would take longer than he had at the moment. “Could
you come back in 3 hours?” Sure, no problem. So Max and I went to the Zoo.
After we returned to the dentist and got the work done including my cavity, cleaning my teeth and then Max’s. The whole thing cost around $150. Seemed fair. Saturday Max and I took a cab to Boca, a old district in BA that has the BA soccer stadium, questionable neighborhoods and a cool area by the harbor that reminds me of Bourbon Street, New Orleans.
After we returned to the dentist and got the work done including my cavity, cleaning my teeth and then Max’s. The whole thing cost around $150. Seemed fair. Saturday Max and I took a cab to Boca, a old district in BA that has the BA soccer stadium, questionable neighborhoods and a cool area by the harbor that reminds me of Bourbon Street, New Orleans.
This night John
Max and I go out to our last dinner in South America. We spend the evening
drinking wine, eating steak and reminiscing about the trip. It’s been an
adventure!
 |
| Buildings of Boco |
 |
| GS ready to ship |
 |
| Both bikes wrapped to go |
 |
| Dinner with some fellow bike riders from Austrailia and Canada |
Monday
We say goodbye to
all our new friends and begin our Journey home, a 26 hour marathon of flights
and airports. First we fly to Santiago Chile, then to Montreal Canada, after a
4 hour layover it’s off to Vancouver Canada then a puddle jumper to Seattle. We
arrive at 3:30 PM Tuesday.
 |
| In Seattle |
Tuesday-
I spend the next
week going to the doctor, catching up on old friends and shopping. Max took off
for Portland and I met Charlotte at the Seattle Airport on the 19th
to fly down to Las Vegas for a friends’ son wedding. So seeing how “what goes
on in
Vegas stays in
Vegas” makes this a good place to end this blog. But one last thing…
A few Stats on the trip:
My total Moto
miles: 17800
Total miles on the
GS (mine and Max’s): 19600
Total Countries: 14
Total Countries: 14
Total KTM
breakdowns: 9+or –
Total days
including September Cobra trip: 187
Total bones broken
(Jimi only): 8
Total days in
hospital: 2
Most miles in one
day: 750 Laird Hot Springs to Prince George BC
Finally I’d like
to dedicate this blog to two people. The first person would be Patrick Moffit.
I met Patrick on my ride through the Gobi Desert in Mongolia. He was the person who organized
the trip and had been riding in the Himalaya and Asia for years. Although I
only rode with him for 8 days he really left a lasting impression and opened my
eyes to traveling the world on two wheels. I was hoping to someday do another trip
with him through India and the Himalayas but unfortunately he died of cancer
before I could make that happen. The second person would have to be Bob
Youngstrom, my friend Rick Farrens’ uncle and the oldest member of the Cobras
MC, Oakland chapter. Bob, a world traveler himself, has followed my last two trips closer than anyone
else. He gets all the maps and follows my blog and Spot Unit, tracing my route
out with a highlighter. He then prints out the entire blog, puts it all
together in a binder together with the maps and presents it all to me at the
end of my trips. Thanks Bob!
